Tuesday, September 21, 2010

King Hussain's Auto Museum

One of his favorites toward the end of reign. Like the king, an exceptional example of its kind.

The King Hussain Park in Amman is a large, entirely landscaped public park on the side of one of the city's hills. While the trees are still in adolescence, it's a pretty park and offers some great views of the city spread out below. It's a favorite place to walk and picnic by residents, especially in the early evening, well protected and clean as a pin. If I wanted to find just one remarkable difference in Amman from the city I first visited in the mid-Seventies, it would be how clean it now is. Put the reason down to security, or culture, but there is almost no litter, and public spaces are clear of the vandalism found in almost all urban centers. That this city is in the mid-East makes its tidiness all the more exceptional. Jerusalem is a mess in comparison, and Ramallah should be ashamed of the comparison.

The late King Hussain was extraordinarily fond of automobiles and motorcycles, and Jordan has built a special building for the public display of his collection and of the automobiles used for state purposes during his long reign. I've been in a lot of automobile museums in my day, and Jordan's effort will stand up to any of them. The park and the museum at the top of the hill deserve the attention of any visitor.

Not all of the cars were used by the late King; some are donated or on loan. It's an eclectic display, with everything from early military armored cars and motorcycles to the latest 1001 hp Bugatti, and if you like Rolls Royce, this collection will make you very happy. The King obviously searched out the mechanically unusual and was intrigued by technological advances in auto design. There's a Cord, a 1949 Chrysler "Woodie" convertible, some truly exceptional Ferraris, a few armored Cadillacs, two Lincolns, at least one Packard, a BMW Z1, an old Lotus, a smattering of Porsches…well, you get the idea. Aside from antiques and rarities, the 50s and 60s are well represented. For some reason best known to him, he liked Buick.

All cars are neatly and effectively displayed and you can (but shouldn't) get close enough to touch. You have to resist the temptation to climb inside some of the cockpits. I do wish they would raise the illumination level in places—it's difficult at times to read the descriptions and stories behind the cars, which are well done for the most part. Harley Davidson fans will enjoy the exhibit (there's a ridiculously opulent example that he liked to ride), and there are some very early German two-and three-wheelers, although I'm personally cool to all cycles—I've laid down my share.

As with the best of museums, there are multimedia presentations of the King racing many of his cars. He seems to have really enjoyed speed and was an accomplished hill-climber, setting some records that resisted betterment for more than a decade. He loved to rally, and several of his rally cars are here.

I think that one of the things that make the museum so interesting is that he used these cars. He had affection for his autos and cycles, they were an important part of his private life, and somehow this makes the man, already exceptional, all the more one of us.

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