If you're the type of person that enjoys a certain structure to life, you will appreciate Germany. And if you find Germany sympathetic, you'll LOVE Trier, one of the oldest cities in Germany, an ancient Roman town full of ruins, and a hugely-popular regional shopping community on the Mosel river. For some reason, I seem to fit in German clothes; I've been buying hats there for decades.
Trier is very near the border with Luxembourg, and a pleasant drive can be had from Remich in the south of Luxembourg along highway 10 (the Route du Vin) hugging the Mosel into Trier. There are several wine caves along the route offering visits and samples. If you like light, white, and rather sweet wines, you'll be happy here. In truth, it's not the wines that charm me here, it's the natural beauty and sense that all's well with the world.
We decided to stop in Trier on our way back to Brussels from Trittenheim rather than the reverse. In this way, you approach the city from the east, through the industrial areas, but are led inexorably to the town center. You may want to do the same, as the road down from the expressway down the escarpment into Trier is winding, ending with a passage over a relatively narrow bridge, and thus almost always suffers from stop-and-go traffic. Be prepared to be patient when arriving; departing is easier as you're putting the bridge behind you while climbing out of the valley.
The Porto Negro, with optional train.
For the first time in years, I got lost trying to find the precise parking lot we traditionally used and ended up in the middle of the shopping area instead of parking outside the entrance at the Porto Negro, one of the more impressive Roman-era structures in Trier. (The other is the Baths.) This was not a problem; there is usually lots of parking, but market days, holidays and Saturdays, as in all rural centers, can be intensely busy.
Some things never change and Trier certainly looked much the same as we left it five years ago. We had a bratwurst mit brot and hot mustard at our favorite place, followed by a Bitburger beer (Bitte ein Bit). Trier cooking seems to have a Gallic influence (perhaps through adjacency with Luxembourg) and is better off for it. Fried foods are lighter on the oil and there's a broader menu available. When in doubt as to where to find a decent meal, follow the crowds. Germans have a lot of fast foods; Americans will feel at home.
Our favorite time in Trier has always been (other than the wine-tasting season in the fall) right before Christmas. Trier has a huge Christmas market that spreads over the expansive town center, filled with booths, crowds, smells and tastes of the season. There's evergreen everywhere, colored lights, music, the German mulled wine called Glühwein with cinnamon served in those silly souvenir cups, the nip in the air, frost on the breath and, of course, the bratwurst, sour-kraut and sautéed onions (also often on the breath). If there is a Santa Claus, he would be German. Wait, he is German.
It was a bit sad to leave Trier; we don't know when we'll be back, and a visit there always gives a cheery boost to our spirits. At the end of the day, we returned to Brussels, cold weather and jackets (it's AUGUST for Pete's sake), and planning for the next stage of our trip: leaving Europe and getting ready for wedding #3, the Niece.
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