Friday, September 24, 2010

Dust in the wind, with apologies to Kansas

The City is out there, somewhere.

This may not be Kansas, Dorothy, but you could forgive some confusion two days ago when Amman was struck by an unusual and surprising dust storm in the late afternoon. Residents could not remember a similar phenomenon at this time of the year. I was reminded of the terrible dust storms of the 1940s and running for storm cellars; it was not pleasant.

The day had been strange from the start. It rarely rains in Amman during September, and yet we awoke to on-and-off sprinkles that continued through the early afternoon. Then, in a sudden rush, we had strong winds, with bent trees and debris in the air. "Weather change" was murmured, and there were expectations of unusual events. Lightning was observed, without accompanying thunder.

As we prepared to leave for the wedding party, thought to be held in open air, there was concerns the evening would be spoiled by rain or strong winds; the reality was even stranger.

As we departed, a dense dust cloud settled over Amman; visibility dropped to less than a hundred meters, and it became deathly still. Lights were quickly lost in the amber gloom, and in a city of several million, our auto traveled in its own little pool of light; we were all individuals, now, the dust had removed our sense of community. It became difficult to breath.

Families met at one of the better hotels to organize for the trip on to the wedding party. By the time we were ready to depart, conditions had improved, a moderate wind had reappeared, and by midnight, the dust had settled and the moon could be again clearly seen. The next morning, other than with everything having a coat of grit, the dust storm was a memory.

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