Driving in Jerusalem

I got to drive a couple of days ago—the first time behind the wheel in Jerusalem in over 20 years. It was fun but I needed constant direction. I drove from East Jerusalem, around the Old City walls and through the tunnels to within a minute of the New Wall bordering Bethlehem. It was an exhilarating drive and left me with the feeling of a great accomplishment—but to do it every day, especially during rush hour(s)—no way.

I used to know the city fairly well and move about with little difficulty, but that was then. Jerusalem, in area, now seems ten times as large as I remember, and far more complex; it is spread over an incredibly large area. It is not difficult to see why the Israelis want—and have usurped—so much of East Jerusalem and the West Bank: they want it for their view of Jerusalem development. Their success has not been benign.

As in any major city, especially one as layered with history as Jerusalem, road construction is a constant. Add in the impact of a new metro rail-tram system on traffic and the locals' rather belligerent driving technique, coupled with almost a total disregard of any but the most aggressive traffic regulation, and you have the equivalent of a carefully-orchestrated, incipient demolition derby. Everything works, but no one knows why. Religion must play an important part: drivers evidently trust in divine intervention; passengers rely upon it. Pedestrians are just crazy.

There are only pieces of the original road that I can recognize; they have added tunnels and multi-lane highways to the road system everywhere. I also note that the traffic signals operate on the German system where there is a yellow-light warning of both red and green signals. Funny, they must have had this twenty years ago but I don't recall. Like most things German, it makes sense and should be adopted in the U.S., in my opinion.

Arabs are particularly proud of the new roads they enjoy in most of the cities in West Bank. Some were damaged during the Israeli incursions in the current decade, but enough remain of the new waste-water and sewer systems, and curbed and paved streets to make a sizable beneficial impact on Arab quality of life. I was greatly impressed with the changes in Bethlehem; less so of those in Ramallah. Taybeh, N.'s family ancestral village, has been transformed in the last twenty years. New roads, both to and within the town have made a big difference to residents.

Part of the problem with getting around, especially outside Jerusalem, is the great number and variety of vehicles on the road. There are an astounding number of vans, trucks, motor scooters and cars, and everything else from hand-carts to burros in the Arab towns. It's similar to Hong Kong traffic. How they co-exist is a wonder; that they do so without notice is a testament to Arab patience, tolerance and grace.

Traffic isn't the only source of noise in Jerusalem, of course, but it certainly is a high-percentile reason for the cacophony in the city. Use of the horn is a key driving technique, and is used extensively—especially where it is most annoying. Long gone are the days when you could hear a donkey honk in the peaceful, early-morning hours. Now, you're lucky if you can hear yourself think. I miss the donkey.