In Trier

High Street in Trier

If you're the type of person that enjoys a certain structure to life, you will appreciate Germany. And if you find Germany sympathetic, you'll LOVE Trier, one of the oldest cities in Germany, an ancient Roman town full of ruins, and a hugely-popular regional shopping community on the Mosel river. For some reason, I seem to fit in German clothes; I've been buying hats there for decades.

Trier is very near the border with Luxembourg, and a pleasant drive can be had from Remich in the south of Luxembourg along highway 10 (the Route du Vin) hugging the Mosel into Trier. There are several wine caves along the route offering visits and samples. If you like light, white, and rather sweet wines, you'll be happy here. In truth, it's not the wines that charm me here, it's the natural beauty and sense that all's well with the world.

We decided to stop in Trier on our way back to Brussels from Trittenheim rather than the reverse. In this way, you approach the city from the east, through the industrial areas, but are led inexorably to the town center. You may want to do the same, as the road down from the expressway down the escarpment into Trier is winding, ending with a passage over a relatively narrow bridge, and thus almost always suffers from stop-and-go traffic. Be prepared to be patient when arriving; departing is easier as you're putting the bridge behind you while climbing out of the valley.

The Porto Negro, with optional train.

For the first time in years, I got lost trying to find the precise parking lot we traditionally used and ended up in the middle of the shopping area instead of parking outside the entrance at the Porto Negro, one of the more impressive Roman-era structures in Trier. (The other is the Baths.) This was not a problem; there is usually lots of parking, but market days, holidays and Saturdays, as in all rural centers, can be intensely busy.

Some things never change and Trier certainly looked much the same as we left it five years ago. We had a bratwurst mit brot and hot mustard at our favorite place, followed by a Bitburger beer (Bitte ein Bit). Trier cooking seems to have a Gallic influence (perhaps through adjacency with Luxembourg) and is better off for it. Fried foods are lighter on the oil and there's a broader menu available. When in doubt as to where to find a decent meal, follow the crowds. Germans have a lot of fast foods; Americans will feel at home.

Our favorite time in Trier has always been (other than the wine-tasting season in the fall) right before Christmas. Trier has a huge Christmas market that spreads over the expansive town center, filled with booths, crowds, smells and tastes of the season. There's evergreen everywhere, colored lights, music, the German mulled wine called Glühwein with cinnamon served in those silly souvenir cups, the nip in the air, frost on the breath and, of course, the bratwurst, sour-kraut and sautéed onions (also often on the breath). If there is a Santa Claus, he would be German. Wait, he is German.

It was a bit sad to leave Trier; we don't know when we'll be back, and a visit there always gives a cheery boost to our spirits. At the end of the day, we returned to Brussels, cold weather and jackets (it's AUGUST for Pete's sake), and planning for the next stage of our trip: leaving Europe and getting ready for wedding #3, the Niece.

Moseying down the Mosel

Civilized, rural bliss.

Toward the end of our time in Brussels, we did what we used to do quite often when living there: we made a little road trip down the expressway, through Luxembourg, to the German border city of Trier and the adjacent Mosel valley. The ancient city of Trier and the Mosel wine-growing region are among our most favored places in Europe, and for many years we never let more than a few months go by without a day or two on the Mosel. I couldn't leave this year without at least one night on, and a drive along this beautiful and peaceful river.

For those similarly inclined, I suggest taking exit 53 after Trier to get onto the Mosel river road as soon as possible, and an overnight in either Trittenheim or Bernkastel Kues. We have stayed with the Heribert Boch families for decades (and have seen their children grown) and recommend their guest house as one of the most pleasant, clean and reasonably priced on the Mosel. They are also generous with the wine tasting and pour a fine grape; their products are award-winners. After an evening sitting on the patio working your way through your stress and a bottle, I particularly recommend the unfermented grape juice served with the German breakfast, and don't leave without a case of their wine in the trunk. They make and bottle it under the guest house. Drink it while it's fresh.

One other tip in Trittenheim: N. loves the apple strudel (okay, so do I) served at a restaurant 200 meters up the Moselweinstrasse at the junction of the road leading to the bridge. If the directions seem a bit vague, be comforted that this is a village and you can find your way home with your eyes closed. Trittenheim makes a good base point for exploring the western Mosel valley and is less than an hour from Trier.

About 50km from Trier, and twenty-minutes past Trittenheim, is Bernkastel and, across the river from the medieval town, the more modern city of Kues. We haven't spent much time in Kues, but Bernkastel is well worth the visit, although a bit touristy. For the hardy (or fool-hardy), take the path up the mountain to the castle and restaurant (for which the town is named). It's a good place for a drink and a view of the river. We've stayed at various guest houses and hotels in Bernkastel; one we can recommend is Haus Bonsai (yes, really), which also gives you a running start on the mountain path. Talk to Danny and all will be clear about the name. Her husband is quite the handyman and has built an elaborate frontal restaurant or bar on their guesthouse. He has put years into it; we've seen it in various stages of construction, and it now seems to be almost finished. I'm sure Danny is pleased. Bernkastel is a pedestrian town, so access the guesthouse through the tunnel, a right-turn when approaching the town.

This year, the river was a bit full, but nothing like we've seen it, or similar to the floods the Mosel cities have experienced in the past. (Look for the high-water marks on Bernkastel buildings.) One year, we couldn't use the river-side parking as it was covered with water. This year the problem of parking was an unanticipated riverside wine festival.

October is the busy month for the Mosel. The annual wine tasting begins immediately after the September harvest and the Mosel is flocked by Germans and the Dutch with their bikes and hiking shoes, filling up the guesthouses and trailer-parks. In the many years of visiting the Mosel, we have always been able to find a room somewhere, but be prepared for some rejection if you intend visiting during the busy fall and summer seasons. Also, these are family businesses, and many close during the winter months.

I realize this reads like a travelogue, and my apologies are offered, but most visitors to Europe spend far too much time in the urban areas and leave without any sense of rural Europe. Visiting the Mosel offers a civilized and convenient opportunity to soak up the innate beauty and serenity of the German countryside. Oh yes, and drink some delightful, light wines.