Wednesday, August 4, 2010

The Chocolate Factory

If Belgium is known for one thing (other than 800+ types of beer and a fragile political system) it is chocolate. Other countries may make some claim or the other, but not one takes chocolate as seriously as do the Belgians. The country has strict laws that aggressively define what is, and what isn't chocolate, and they get really upset when claims are made for products that don't meet the minimum percentage of cocoa mass. While the U.S. and even the EU have compromised the integrity of chocolate—it's just a matter of time before popular U.S. chocolate is degraded into random vegetable fats, emulsifiers and food coloring—the Belgians have remained obstinate. I say: good for them.

For those who grew up thinking Hershey's or Mars bars were the highest quality chocolate to which we could aspire, Belgian chocolate will prove an eye-opener. Simply put, there is no substitute for the incredibly rich texture, subtle range of flavors and overtones, craftsmanship and intense joy that it provides.

The big Belgian names in chocolate—now popular worldwide—are known to most, but it should not be surprising that the Belgians think that the very best chocolate is produced by small craft shops hidden away from the main-stream. Shops like Mary, considered one of the finest chocolatiers in Belgium (stated to be a favorite of the Royal Family should you find such things important), which is tucked into a store and workshop on Rue Royale.

L. has directed us to a very interesting vendor on Ch. de Charleroi called Zaabär, and its Chocolate Factory is truly pocket-sized but somewhat unique. Its chocolates are superb. One of the things that differentiate Zaabär is that they vacuum seal their bar chocolate. Most wrap or seal in paper or light foil, exposing the chocolate to bloom caused by humidity or rapid temperature change. Not so with Zaabär, and their packaging is innovative and classy, also great for shipping. It's a bit pricy, but then, I think it's worth it. This is chocolate that you savor and relish in small portions.

One of the things to do in Brussels is to tour one of the workshops offered by several of the chocolatiers. Mary, for example, has tours of its new factory in the old—now converted—Arsenal in Etterbeek (a commune of Brussels). Zaabär offers a tour by default as their shop IS its factory, and you're surrounded by the process while you walk around and sample the wares. The idea is to nibble to find your favorites and fill your basket at the same time. Each of the chocolate blends they make (and they make a lot of them, some very exotic and exciting) is on display with small bits available for tasting. If you go from start to finish, you can pretty much eat your fill. I highly recommend the chili blends for a hot finish to the chocolate flavor. You may know that chocolate comes from different regions, each with distinct overtones. My favorite at Zaabär is the Grenada-sourced dark (60% cocoa) chocolate.

Zaabär also offers the opportunity to join one of its classes, held twice a week, where for 20 euro you can learn to make your own chocolates. You can keep what you make, probably a good thing, as there can't be much demand for that pizza-flavored chocolate you're thinking about.

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